A cycling trip past waterfalls, river landscapes and hills in Laos
Laos is known as the land of a million elephants, but for the cyclist it is above all the land of a thousand shades of green. On a Laos cycling holiday you are not merely an onlooker; you become part of the landscape. Because there is little industry in Laos and tourism is still in its early stages compared with Thailand or Vietnam, the natural surroundings here are still pure. The air is clean and the sounds you hear are those of the jungle, the river and the wind. The setting changes every day, but the constant factor is the overwhelming beauty of the scenery you experience from the saddle.
The lifeline of Laos: cycling along the Mekong
The Mekong river is more than water alone; it is the soul of Laos. For large parts of your trip you follow this mighty river. Cycling along the Mekong offers a relatively flat course, which is welcome as a change from the hills. You see fishermen casting their nets in the morning light and children playing on the banks. The river connects villages and provides fertile ground, so you often ride between vegetable gardens and tobacco plantations. The view across the water, with Thailand or dense jungle often on the other side, gives a sense of endless space. It is the ideal place to stand still for a moment during a break and watch the slow-flowing water.
The Bolaven Plateau: coffee plantations and cooler air
When we take the route south, we come to the Bolaven Plateau. This is literally and figuratively a high point of your Laos cycling holiday. The plateau lies higher, so the temperature here is more pleasant and cooler than in the lowlands. This area is well known for its coffee. Here you ride past endless coffee plantations where the beans lie drying in the sun. Sometimes the smell of roasted coffee reaches you first. The roads here are sometimes red with dust, which makes a fine contrast with the deep green colours of the plants. It is a region that invites you to get off the bike for a while and taste a fresh cup of local coffee at the farm itself.
Striking waterfalls as a place to rest
Water is everywhere in Laos. The landscape is cut through by countless rivers flowing from the mountains to the Mekong. That makes for striking waterfalls. During the stages we often plan stops at these natural wonders, such as the Kuang Si waterfalls near Luang Prabang or the Tad Fane on the Bolaven Plateau. It is an indescribable feeling, after a demanding ride in the morning, to lean your bike against a tree and take a dip in a clear blue natural pool beneath a waterfall. The cold water washes away the sweat and the fatigue straight away. These are the moments when you realise that cycling is the best way to reach these hidden places.
Karst mountains around Vang Vieng
One of the most photogenic landscapes you come across is around Vang Vieng. Here enormous limestone rocks (karst mountains) rise straight up out of the rice fields. It is reminiscent of the well-known Ha Long Bay in Vietnam, but on land. Cycling in the shadow of these giants is impressive. The roads here wind between the rock formations. Sometimes you have to get out of the saddle for a climb, but the view from the top makes it all worthwhile. The combination of bright green rice fields, grey rock and a blue sky makes for images you will never forget.
The quiet of the remote roads
What really makes a cycling trip in Laos with CvA travel distinctive is the choice of roads. We avoid the busy main roads (such as they are) and choose the back roads. There is hardly any traffic here. Sometimes you do not meet a car for an hour, only the occasional moped or an ox cart. This quiet is rare in our western world. It gives you the chance to sink into your thoughts, or instead to listen very consciously to the birds. Here the road is not merely a connection from A to B, but a destination in itself. The tarmac is not always perfect, and sometimes we ride sections on gravel, but that only adds to the adventure.
Encounters that stay with you on your cycling trip in Laos
At CvA travel we take the view that a country only really comes to life through its people. In Laos the people may well be the greatest thing to see. Laotians are known as one of the most relaxed peoples in the world. Stress does not seem to exist here. On your Laos cycling holiday the encounters are often spontaneous and warm-hearted. Because you are on a bike, you are approachable. There is no glass or metal between you and your surroundings. A smile, a wave or a simple “Sabaidee” (hello) opens doors that stay closed to other tourists.
The monks’ morning ceremony
An image that stays with every traveller is the daily alms ceremony, or “Tak Bat”. In the early morning, when the mist still hangs over the streets, hundreds of monks in their saffron-orange robes walk through the streets in a silent procession. Local people kneel and offer sticky rice or fruit. Although this is well known in Luang Prabang, you see this ritual throughout Laos, including in the small villages we ride through. We make sure we can witness this respectfully, without disturbing the ceremony. The complete silence and devotion of this moment is a spiritual start to your cycling day.
The smile of children in the villages
As soon as you ride into a village, you often hear it: “Sabaidee! Sabaidee!” Children run to the side of the road, wave enthusiastically and want high fives. In the remote areas they do not see western cyclists in colourful clothing every day. Their joy is pure and infectious. Sometimes we stop for a moment at a small school or a village square. With gestures, and with the help of our local guide, you make contact. You see how they play with simple means, how they help in the household and how close-knit the community is. These moments of interaction give you energy, even when your legs are tired.
Ethnic minorities and their traditions
Laos has dozens of different ethnic groups, each with their own language, dress and customs. In the hill areas in particular you come across villages of the Hmong, the Khmu or the Akha. Our routes are put together so that we ride through these areas as well. You see women in fine, hand-embroidered traditional dress at work in the fields or weaving beneath their houses on stilts. It is fascinating to see how these peoples keep their traditions alive. Our guide can tell you about their belief in spirits (animism) and the meaning of the different patterns in their clothing. It is a living history lesson.
The “Sabai Sabai” mentality
During your trip you will get to know the idea of “Sabai Sabai”. It means something like “take it easy”, “it will be fine” or “don’t worry”. It is the heart of the Laotian character. If something goes wrong – a puncture, a shower of rain, or the food takes a little longer – the response is always “Sabai Sabai”. For westerners used to efficiency and haste, this can take some getting used to at first. But soon, during your cycling trip in Laos, you take on this attitude yourself. You learn that hurrying is pointless and that waiting is a moment of rest. It is a valuable lesson to take home as a souvenir.
A look at the local kitchen in people’s homes
Food connects. On our trips we try not only to eat in restaurants, but really to taste locally. Sometimes we stop at a stall by the road where a woman is frying bananas or making fresh noodle soup. You see how they prepare the most flavourful dishes with fresh herbs such as coriander, mint and lemongrass. Laotian cooking is fresh and pure. Seeing the preparation, often over a simple wood fire, and then eating together sitting on low stools, makes for a sense of connection. You are not a customer, but a guest.
Craftsmanship along the route
Riding through the villages you see people at work. Not in factories, but beneath their houses. You see basket weavers making the most intricate patterns from bamboo. You see blacksmiths making knives and tools from old metal (sometimes even the remains of bombs from the war). And you see women spinning and weaving silk. It is craft work passed down from generation to generation. Because we are on bikes, we can easily stop for a moment to admire this craftsmanship close up. It commands respect for the skills and the patience of local people.
A distinctive day-by-day cycling holiday plan in Laos
A good route is the basis of every successful cycling trip. At CvA travel we have put the route through Laos together so that you have a good balance between effort and relaxation, and between culture and nature. Broadly speaking, we travel from the cultural north to the tropical south. This day-by-day plan has been developed with care by our experts, who have ridden every kilometre themselves. We skip the dull stretches (using the bus for those) and only ride the finest sections. That way you get the most out of your Laos cycling holiday.
Starting in royal Luang Prabang
Your trip often begins in Luang Prabang, without doubt the most atmospheric city in South-East Asia. It is on the UNESCO World Heritage list, and rightly so. The city lies on a peninsula between the Mekong and the Nam Khan rivers. Here you first have time to acclimatise and to adjust your bike. We do warm-up loops through the city, past golden temples and old French colonial villas. The atmosphere here is relaxed; there is hardly any car traffic in the centre. In the evening we visit the well-known night market. It is the ideal, calm start for getting used to the climate and the bike.
Into the mountains towards Vang Vieng
After Luang Prabang we head into the countryside. The route to Vang Vieng is striking. This is the area where the legs are tested, because there are some hills in the course. But do not worry, the support vehicle is always close by. We ride through small mountain villages where time has stood still. Along the way we have lunch with a view over the valleys. Arriving in Vang Vieng has something magical about it, with the karst mountains looming on the horizon. Here we often stay an extra day, not only to cycle but also to walk, to kayak or simply to take in the sunset over the river.
The quiet capital, Vientiane
Vientiane may well be the quietest capital city in the world. Compared with Bangkok or Hanoi it feels like a large village. We ride into the city along the banks of the Mekong. The broad boulevards and the French influences, such as the Patuxai (the Laotian Arc de Triomphe), give the city a certain grandeur. We visit Pha That Luang, the great golden stupa that is the national symbol of Laos. In Vientiane there is room for comfort as well: good coffee places, good restaurants and pleasant hotels. It is a welcome urban interlude in your trip through the countryside.
The unspoilt south: Pakse and Champasak
From Vientiane we often move south, to the region around Pakse. Here the atmosphere changes. It is more tropical, wider and quieter still. We ride to Champasak, a sleepy town on the river. The highlight here is Wat Phou, an old temple complex that is older than Angkor Wat in Cambodia. The temple lies against a mountainside. We ride there along quiet country roads. The atmosphere at these ruins is mysterious, certainly because it is often very quiet. Here you feel the centuries of history.
Coffee and waterfalls on the Bolaven Plateau
From the lowlands we climb (or take the bus up and ride on the top) to the Bolaven Plateau. As mentioned earlier, this is another world. The temperature drops and the vegetation becomes more lush. We ride past waterfalls that plunge hundreds of metres down. The roads are good and rolling. We visit local coffee farmers and learn all about the process from berry to bean. Here we often sleep in resorts set in the middle of nature, where you fall asleep with the sound of crickets and waterfalls in the background.
Finishing in paradise: the 4,000 islands
We finish the trip in a place that sounds like a dream: Si Phan Don, or the 4,000 islands. Here the Mekong river becomes kilometres wide and countless small islands lie in the current. We ride on the islands of Don Det and Don Khone. There are no cars here, only cycle paths and sand tracks. We ride over the old French railway bridge and along the banks, where with luck you can spot the rare Irrawaddy dolphins. The pace here is slower still than in the rest of Laos. It is the ultimate place to finish your cycling trip: a hammock, a sunset and looking back on a great adventure.
Group trips without pressure, at your own pace, or individual freedom on your cycling trip in Laos
At CvA travel we understand that everyone travels in their own way. Cycling is personal. One person wants to cover kilometres, another wants to stop every five kilometres for a photograph. That is why we offer trips in which freedom is the key word, even in a group. A Laos cycling holiday should feel like your holiday, not like a military operation in which you have to ride in strict formation. Whether you choose a group trip or an individual trip, we provide the framework within which you experience your own adventure.
The luxury of the support vehicle
Our greatest asset on group trips is the support vehicle. This vehicle always travels along the route. It carries not only the luggage, but also provides safety and comfort. Are you having an off day? Are the hills just a little too steep? Or do you simply feel like looking around without pedalling? Then you get in. There is no shame and no judgement. That is a great relief. You know you always have a back-up. The vehicle also provides cold water, fresh fruit and snacks along the way.
Cycling at your own pace
With us, cycling in a group does not mean you have to stay together like a peloton. We work with clear route descriptions or GPS, and our guides take care of the coordination. That means you can ride at your own pace. The faster riders can go ahead, those who like to take it in can take their time. We agree fixed points for lunch or coffee. That way you have the company of the group during the breaks and in the evenings, but the freedom of the individual while cycling. Nobody has to tread carefully or hold back.
The role of the tour leader
Our tour leaders are more than guides; they are facilitators of your experience. They are often Dutch-speaking experts or local guides who speak very good English. They know the route inside out, know where the best coffee is and help with technical problems with the bike. They arrange the check-in at hotels and the meals, so that you only have to think about pedalling and taking it all in. They are there for you when you need them, but also give you room to discover things for yourself.
Individual freedom on a tailor-made trip
Besides group trips, CvA travel also offers individual trips. On these you set off with your own party, for instance your partner or family. You get the same good route and support, but you decide the departure date and the daily rhythm yourself. Would you like a lie-in? That is fine. Would you like to stay an extra day in Vang Vieng? We will arrange it. You usually have a private guide and driver with you, so that you have all the conveniences and local knowledge, but with maximum privacy. This is ideal for people who really want to make their own plans.
A balance between effort and relaxation
A cycling holiday is active, but it is still a holiday. We plan the days so that you usually ride in the morning, when it is still cool. In the afternoon you are then often free or at the destination. That gives you the time to jump into the swimming pool, read a book, have a massage or explore a village. We avoid days of 100 kilometres; the distances are usually between 40 and 70 kilometres. It is about the quality of the kilometres, not the quantity.
Safety comes first
Laos is a safe country and the traffic is quiet. Even so, safety is our first concern. We provide well-maintained bikes and helmets are compulsory. Every morning the guide gives a briefing on the stage: what to look out for, what the road surface is like, are there descents? Because you do not have to worry about the route or the traffic, you can take in the surroundings far more calmly. You are in good hands, from departure to arrival.
